Article December 24, 2007 Issue

A starry 'Heiligabend' in Zambia

BY ULRIKE PRINZ

In Germany, where I live, Christmas preparations often begin as early as October. Lights go up in towns and cities, and window displays express the spirit of celebration. Everything reaches a high note on "Heiligabend," Christmas Christmas Eve, which many people spend with their families. Christmas trees have already been decorated, and we sing Christmas carols, enjoy a baked goose and other special delicacies, and share gifts. It's an exhilarating time. But I once experienced a very different "Christmas," in July in the Southern Hemisphere.

I'd been backpacking through Africa on a tight budget, and had been traveling around for many weeks. Although I was feeling weary, I still wanted to get to Zambia to see the world-famous Victoria Falls.

One night, I'd reached the edge of those falls and could already hear a deafening roar. Wow ... what power! Since it was too dark to see the water, it was time to find a place to stay for the night. In the distance, I saw bright lights shining in the windows of hotels that had been built especially for tourists. Although those accommodations looked inviting and cozy, I knew they were much too expensive for me.